DSM New York

Gosha Rubchinskiy’s FW18 collection marks the conclusion of a chapter. Bringing fashion off the beaten path for the third season to the city of Yekaterinburg, Gosha presents both references to his past and hints of the future to come.

The location of the show, the Yeltsin Center Museum, recounts the years of the Russian Federation’s first president’s mandate, who governed from 1991 to 1999, a very formative decade for Russia as well as Gosha. The models walk through the museum’s rooms as if walking through history, invading the different spaces and reclaiming the symbolism of this pivotal period in the country’s past. Yekaterinburg was the perfect location to bid fairwell to themes of 90’s and nostalgia, so cardinal to Gosha’s last collections.

Yekaterinburg born artist, Erik Bulatov, who’s artwork is displayed in the museum, created a new series this year that has yet to be seen by the public. Gosha was inspired by one of these pieces and translated it into original prints for the collection reading “a friend suddently turned foe”, symbolizing volatility. Gosha and Erik, two generations of Russians, meet around this idea of an everchanging plot, where you never know what the future will hold, especially in present times. The visual force of these words and their meaning give the first hint of the military theme inherant to Gosha’s FW18 collection.

Technical sportswear, in collaboration with adidas Football for a final iteration before the 2018 World Cup, featuring oversized shapes and bright colors, meet hybrid pieces and uniform references. Taking his collaboration with Burberry one step further, this season sees the introduction of scarves and shoes as part of the 13-piece collection which highlights Burberry outerwear icons.

Picking up on the football fan theme from previous seasons, Gosha worked with Levi’s once again to create new hybrid designs using their classic pants and jackets. Teaming up with Dr. Martens for the first time, Gosha presents the well known British footwear with a subtle military twist.

All these elements come together in creating a contemporary uniform. Youths today possess a mind of their own and are open to the world. The camo prints and flags from different countries represent this openness, a globalist youth united under their shared passions driven by the closeness brought by social media. Gosha sends a message of unity, his army is not meant to separate but to bring together.

In Yekaterinburg, the aesthetic of the 90’s football fan gently fades away mixing with new ideas as this young army strides past a monumental art piece by artist Erik Bulatov that reads “FREEDOM” in cyrilic.

The collection will be available at all Dover Street Market locations from July 2018.